Surf Anything @San O

Big Update: Session Stories has moved to San Clemente, California.
Words and photos by: Ross Cauvel

Have you experienced the hallowed grounds known simply as San Onofre Surf Beach? Followed in the steps of legends? Rock-danced over the mussel and seaweed coated cobblestones?

Well, if you have, then you enjoyed a surf break that’s been a favorite of surfing’s great longboarders, Skip Frye or Joel Tudor or Phil Edwards. San O is a place they went to cross-step to the nose of their nine-foot longboards, hanger their toes off the tip, and glide down gently crumbling waves.

Beginners and Style Masters alike love San-O day for its forgiving nature. It allows beginners enough time to stand up to their feet, while advanced surfers can carve turns, hang ten, even—hang heels.

The summer weekends are packed with a motley crowd from all backgrounds, social status, age, and even species (some pooches surf too!). The car line to enter the park can take two hours or longer, so be prepared to wait.

In the water, you’ll see a parade of surfboards of all shapes, sizes, and fin orientations. From the classic designs of the 60’s to new age finless alais, which were one of the original Hawaiian surfboards. Each one is a time machine taking its navigator to a feeling tasted by San O legends like Tom Blake or Dorian “Doc” Paskowitz or Tommy Witt.

I got to experience one such day when my friend, Chris, when he swung through from Texas and camped at San Mateo. He was living that #vanlife, just like many of the other Sprinters, old VW’s, Broncos, and mad welder’s creations.

As a photographer, I’m always looking for stylish surfers to shoot. And Chris brings the energy to get the shot. Photos from the water are super difficult to get in focus without water droplets on the lens. Luckily, we got a few like this series:

Chris, @workingclassgyro, slicing a sweet piece of surf Americana.

Enjoy a few more photos of surfers enjoying that San-O day!