You push open the door to your room. An opaque fog is settled between the palm tree trunks. As you walk towards the ocean, you feel the stone walkway is cool underneath your feet.
A wave rumbles in the distance. It's a clue of what the day will hold. Sounded like five to six feet and good power. There's no wind, so you know it'll be clean.
A steaming pot of coffee is waiting on a counter by the kitchen. You find a mug and fill up. You continue down another path, past the surfboard racks, to a thatch roof palapa.
You ascend the stairs. The horizon blasts golden sunlight horizontally across the ocean. Another rumble comes from the point.
Lines of waves like undulating underground tunnels, lift and drop. Spray blows over the top as water crashes down.
You take a sip of coffee and mind-surf a bottom turn, then a section comes up and you see where you'd hit the lip, then accelerate to the next section.
You shake out your limbs. There's tightness from the consecutive multi-session days.
The energy is palpable. You're ready to pounce. You sip take a bigger sip of coffee.
After heading back to your room and caking on sunscreen, you swing by the board rack and pull out your trusty blade.
You hunt and peck your steps wisely as you walk the cobblestones down to the beach. On your way, you see your friend coming down the path. to join you. Perfect timing.
The saltwater flows around your legs. You lunge up on your board and paddle out with the rip. About halfway out, you see a spinning vortex of water rifle down the line. It's firing.
You get into position at the point. You see rolling mounds on the horizon. The wave comes and it's perfect. You take the first one because why not? You casually paddle to the peak, then turn arch your back and casually pop up and drop into it. The rush is instant. The wind rushing over your face. Boardshorts flapping from the velocity. You see your shadow in the face of the wave. And you have a Peter Pan moment. It winks at you, then zooms ahead.
As you carve into your first turn of the morning, you know it'll be an amazing day and you're grateful to have ever experienced that.