I don’t know Clay Pollioni. I’ve seen Dark Fall. And I’ve done an unthorough Google search to dig up some info.
You can find the facts. But, really, what are facts?
To me, they’re milestones along a journey. And in the end, those milestones represent intention, perseverance and all the qualities one develops to approach life’s challenges. But as a surfer, isn't there another way to know a person? Other than Google?
Surfers know surfers. You can find out everything you need to know about a surfer by witnessing them in motion – even on one wave.
As Clay paddled past me, he asked me what lens I was shooting with. A 35mm, I responded. He seemed to process this information.
Then he proceeded to position himself where the bigger sets were breaking. When the first one rolled in, he went. No hesitation. No movement wasted. Guided by decades of training.
And I was psyched to capture it, knowing that these times are fleeting, to have a weekday off, show up at the same spot and be healthy and ready to link for a photo. It doesn’t happen on the East Coast without effort and a little luck.