Last week was the bomb(ogenesis) thanks to Nor’Easter Riley.
Wait, what's bombogenesis?
It happens when a storm strengthens rapidly, like steroids for a weather event.
Specifically, it occurs when a mid-latitude cyclone drops at least 24 milibars over 24 hours, like when a cold continental air mass collides with warm sea surface temperatures.
Frequently, Nor'easters are weather bombs due to cold air surging southward from Canada combined with the warm Gulf Stream current.
But that's only part of the story.
Winter Storm Riley generated long period swell in excess of a 15 second period. When this long period combined with the bathymetry of the New York coast, something extraordinary began to happen.
According to the late great surf forecaster, Sean Collins founder of Surfline, the Hudson Canyon--a shallow outlet at the mouth of the Hudson River--will funnel energy into certain spots.
“The last finger of the canyon closest to shore at the Hudson Shelf Valley is 150-300 feet deep, and will greatly influence swells with periods of 12 seconds or greater.”
That was a lot of science to say it was pumping with perfect lines.
Not to mention, it was the weekend, so no loss of income or productivity for the working stiff. (Grind on!)
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