It was extra warm that Fall. The waves were not super consistent and we rarely had a big storm that whole season. But, often enough, everything came together and we had a few doses of pure wave heroin injected into our veins.
Thanksgiving morning, I woke up before the crack of dawn. 3:30, my iPhone read. I ninja'd out of the house and quietly unlocked my car and slip in. I was staying at a friend's place, and I tried not to wake them during their holiday vacation.
I finished my drive to MTK and got out. When I approached the edge, the sun was barely breaking. As it rose, the colors morphed across the sky. Every moment felt like I need to capture a photo. I shot for about two hours. Then, I got a few waves for myself. The day really sticks out in my mind. I always think to myself, I gotta git me sum more a dat!